River Bank of India Series 02

A city river from Bengaluru, Karnataka.

This river bank is nestled along a slender stream originating from the Malleshwara locality in Bengaluru. It serves as one of the tributaries contributing to the Vrishabhavathi River, which, in turn, joins the Arkavathy River before ultimately merging into the prominent Cauvery River – a lifeline for Karnataka.

Bengaluru's Rivers

Bengaluru, an urban sprawl on a high plateau, isn't typically associated with rivers. It lacks substantial nearby water bodies to serve its large and growing population. It relies on water pumped from the distant Cauvery River, located over a hundred kilometres away, and local rain harvesting for groundwater. Despite this, Bengaluru is home to two small rivers, including the Vrishabhavati.

Naga stones or snake shrines near Kadu Malleshwara Temple.

Vrishabhavati ‘s Origin: The Kadu Malleshwara Temple

One branch of the Vrishabhavathi River originates at the Kadu Malleshwara Temple in Malleshwara. 'Kadu,' translating to forest in Kannada, reflects the area's history of dense woodlands. Water flows not only from the Malleshwara region but also from other directions, including the Sankey Tank and Bengaluru Palace Grounds, into this river. Locally known as Raja Kaluve or King Drain/Canal, this initial stretch features the Malleshwara Dhobi Ghat or Washerman's Steps.

Unraveling the Ghat

The term 'Ghat,' rooted in South Indian or Dravidian origins, signifies steps leading to water or a series of stepped hills akin to the famed Western and Eastern Ghat ranges in the Indian peninsula. The famous ghats of Varanasi in Northern India, where people bathe, take purification dips and cremate dead bodies as per the Hindu rituals, were mostly built by Maratha kings and queens with roots in the Deccan and are similar to the ones found in Maharashtra, which is part of the Deccan. But the Ghats of India is a story for another day or substack.

The Dhobi Ghat of Malleshwara.

The river begins a soapy journey from the Malleshwara Dhobi Ghat, or washerman/woman’s ghat, which is a landmark that has survived the city’s rapid change. Laundry from hospitals, hotels, and homes comes here from the northwest part of the city, and the water comes from deep underground through tube wells. The Sankey Tank recharges the water table here to provide enough water.  The ghat itself is small, and the river is invisible here. Only stagnant tanks fill in for the river. 

The Donkeys of Malleshwara

Donkeys were the beasts of burden employed by the washerfolks. These days, they are primarily used for milk. Donkey’s milk is given to young children and is considered healthy. You can buy Donkry’s Milk here. If you ever visit this part of Bengaluru, you will see donkeys walking across the street. They come home to the Dhobi Ghat every night.

The Other Watershed

To the east of Malleshwara is the Bangalore or Bengaluru Palace Grounds and a locality called High Grounds. Water from here also feeds the same river. The western end of the Palace Grounds contains a seasonal patch of water that is seen below.

Drifting Downstream

Downstream, the water channel slowly grows even as it is squeezed between residential walls and concrete slabs of homes. The river encapsulates a familiar urban scene where water bodies often surround economically disadvantaged areas. Despite Malleshwara's affluence, those residing near the river or drain are relatively less privileged.

The River Acquires a Shape.

The river grows in size about 10 kilometres downstream in the Bangalore University Campus. The water is treated, and raw sewage flows perennially. It’s the river that’s pumped from Cauvery downstream that finds its way back after use. 

It gets walled on both sides once it exits the green Bangalore University (or Bengaluru) campus.

SWD: STORM WATER DRAIN

The stories of all Indian rivers are the same. They are labelled as Storm Water Drains. They are strangled to almost death before they remind us that they exist when storms and cyclones arrive.

Rivers Remember is the title of a book about the rivers of Chennai written by Krupa Ge and is a must-read if you are interested in cities. Read a review of the book here.

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