In Salt Kissed 01, we visited the seaside village of Udwada in South Gujarat. Today, we visit Chimbai, a fishing village that survives in the heart of Mumbai.
On October 2nd, 2019, Mohandas Gandhi’s birth anniversary, my friend Aslam Sayyed and I started Hallu Hallu (Slowly Slowly in Marathi and Deccani languages spoken in this region of India). Since then, Aslam has been slowly slowly taking forward his idea of helping people discover communities and places in and around Mumbai. Aslam started getting locals and experts to guide people on walks along the hiding-in-plain-sight rivers of Mumbai, tribal villages, artists, writers, storytellers and many food experiences. He gets people from communities to lead the walks so that the people caught in the daily work routine called Mumbai can interact with communities that are pushed to the margins of popular imagination but are central to the city. Then, some walks explore the neighbourhoods of the city. One of Hallu Hallu’s most popular walks is led by Minaz Ansari (whom you must follow), an excellent teacher/guide and urban designer. She unravels the secrets of the villages of Bandra, the neighbourhood in which she resides.
Today’s photo essay is a story from one of the old villages of Bandra, Mumbai, where Minaz’s walk begins—Chimbai. It starts near St Andrew’s Church, older than the Taj Mahal, and is led by a resident of the fishing community that is now pushed to the narrow sliver of land between the city and the sea.
Her name is Thelma Poojari.
Thelma manages the local branch of the flourishing undertaker business but is known more as, as she calls it, MOUTH of the fisherfolk of Chimbai village. She has the spine to stand up against the land sharks, a unique urban Indian creature with many tentacles and more disguises and weapons than the most evolved intertidal and marine predators.
The walk is actually several walks in one. She leads a walk through the narrow beach, where basalt rocks stretch out into the sea and are visible during low tide. It's cultural—she takes people into homes with doors open, fishing culture, the pier, and lots of food cooked in the Koli or East Indian style. If the walk happens during low tide, a mind-blowing marine tide pool walk is also thrown in.
Info: Origin of the name East Indians
Chimbai - The Fishing Village.
The coastal road runs parallel to the shore, and an exit/entry ramp is coming up on the village's northern margin. The community sought experts' help to ensure the bridge's design did not affect their access to the sea and its resources. Right now, the construction's noise, rubble and disturbance add stress and obstacles to their daily fishing activity. This is not the story of this tiny hamlet alone, it’s shared by all the fishing communities along the coast after the coastal construction rules were diluted in favour of industries and infrastructure in the last decades and against environment protection.
More details:
Down to Earth
Scroll
Indian Express
Meanwhile, the daily life goes on on Chimbai to the dance of the tides.
Fresh catch. It was immediately dispatched to one of the many popular seafood restaurants in Bandra, which is now an enclave of the rich.
The striking feature of fishing in the village is that it is not industrialised yet. Here are the tools of life by the sea.
Preparing the poles and nets to catch the fish the tide brings in.
Tools of the trade.
Thelma shows off a traditional basket used to keep the catch.
At the edge of the village is the fish stall where the women sell fish. Looking carefully, you will see Bombay Duck drying on a pole. I will be sharing the story and recipe of a special Koli/East Indian dish made with them soon as another post.
Meet Manik, the retired mechanic, once the sole mechanic of the village who could repair any boat engine.
Football rules this shore.
Meet the local fishing club.
Plastic waste decorated the trunks of the small island of mangroves in the village. That’s our contribution to the planet.
More images from this salt-kissed part of Mumbai, soon.
This is such great documentation. Totally blown by the story and the visuals. Fantastic stuff!
Engrossing and interesting, as always